The following is how to replace your worn out motor mounts on an E9x M3 using just basic tools, two floor jacks, and some 4x4s. Sorry I didn’t get photos of every step, but hopefully you can get the idea. The OEM mounts are part number 11812283798.
1. Pop the hood and remove the airbox. We need to remove this because it is the first thing the engine will contact when raised up in the engine bay. The lower half is only held in by the two screws near the driver’s side fender.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels and then place a jack under each jack pad behind the front tires and raise the vehicle. Once the tires are off the ground remove them.
3. Remove these fender liners at the rear bottom of both wheel wells.
4. Under the car, remove the black felt plastic piece covering the transmission, and remove the three bolts holding the front black felt to the skid plate. Picture borrowed and cropped from EAS.
5. Remove the 6 bolts holding the skid plate on, two of which are covered by the front black felt, but you can get to them by pulling down the front felt a little.
6. Remove the nuts from the top and bottom of both motor mounts. You can reach in the hole in the inside of the fender to the top of the mounts.
7. There are a total of 8 bolts holding the K member to the frame. Remove the two rear most bolts on both sides.
8. Stack the 4x4’s under the oil pan and then very slowly lower both jacks a little at a time until the engine is resting on the 4x4’s. Continue to lower the jacks about an inch, paying very close attention to the engine in the engine bay, stop lowering before the top of the intake manifold contacts the aluminum strut bars. You should see that the engine has separated from the top of the mounts at this point, but not enough to remove them. Alternatively, if you have access to an engine stand you could make this process much easier by just lifting the engine by the lifting ring on the front of the engine.
9. Now back the four bolts remaining in the K member out approximately 1”. This should allow you enough wiggle room to lift the mounts out and pull them out the side holes. It is very tight here, and you will have to back the screws in the K member most of the way out to get the mounts out of the hole.
1” gap between the K member and the frame:
10. Place the new mounts in the lower seat on the K member making sure to rotate them so the key pin on the mount lines up with the alignment hole on the K member. Screw on the lower nut attaching the mount to the K member.
11. Tighten the four bolts in the K member; while raising, guide the top stud of the mounts into the holes on the motor brackets. Reinstall the four bolts that were removed from the rear of the K member. Sorry I don’t know the OEM torque specs, but I did approximately 45 ft lbs.
12. Using the jacks, raise the vehicle back up so that it is holding the full weight of the engine. Install the nut on the top stud of the mount.
13. Reinstall the remaining components in reverse order.
This is how worn mine were after 70k miles:
1. Pop the hood and remove the airbox. We need to remove this because it is the first thing the engine will contact when raised up in the engine bay. The lower half is only held in by the two screws near the driver’s side fender.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels and then place a jack under each jack pad behind the front tires and raise the vehicle. Once the tires are off the ground remove them.
3. Remove these fender liners at the rear bottom of both wheel wells.
4. Under the car, remove the black felt plastic piece covering the transmission, and remove the three bolts holding the front black felt to the skid plate. Picture borrowed and cropped from EAS.
5. Remove the 6 bolts holding the skid plate on, two of which are covered by the front black felt, but you can get to them by pulling down the front felt a little.
6. Remove the nuts from the top and bottom of both motor mounts. You can reach in the hole in the inside of the fender to the top of the mounts.
7. There are a total of 8 bolts holding the K member to the frame. Remove the two rear most bolts on both sides.
8. Stack the 4x4’s under the oil pan and then very slowly lower both jacks a little at a time until the engine is resting on the 4x4’s. Continue to lower the jacks about an inch, paying very close attention to the engine in the engine bay, stop lowering before the top of the intake manifold contacts the aluminum strut bars. You should see that the engine has separated from the top of the mounts at this point, but not enough to remove them. Alternatively, if you have access to an engine stand you could make this process much easier by just lifting the engine by the lifting ring on the front of the engine.
9. Now back the four bolts remaining in the K member out approximately 1”. This should allow you enough wiggle room to lift the mounts out and pull them out the side holes. It is very tight here, and you will have to back the screws in the K member most of the way out to get the mounts out of the hole.
1” gap between the K member and the frame:
10. Place the new mounts in the lower seat on the K member making sure to rotate them so the key pin on the mount lines up with the alignment hole on the K member. Screw on the lower nut attaching the mount to the K member.
11. Tighten the four bolts in the K member; while raising, guide the top stud of the mounts into the holes on the motor brackets. Reinstall the four bolts that were removed from the rear of the K member. Sorry I don’t know the OEM torque specs, but I did approximately 45 ft lbs.
12. Using the jacks, raise the vehicle back up so that it is holding the full weight of the engine. Install the nut on the top stud of the mount.
13. Reinstall the remaining components in reverse order.
This is how worn mine were after 70k miles:
Aucun commentaire:
Enregistrer un commentaire